It is often assumed by both writers and speakers that, previous to the passing of the Education Acts of last century, the people of our countryside were living in a state of illiteracy and darkest ignorance. This, of course, is not true, and the object of this short pamphlet is partly to dispel this illusion, and partly to show what local efforts were made to encourage learning in these isolated dales.

Now the first piece of evidence comes from the Marriage Registers, which date back to 1754. The vast majority of people appear to have been quite capable of writing their own names. The best man and the bridesmaid were also able to sign as witnesses. In fact, on going through the entries one is struck by a strange fact, namely, that in the case where one party to a marriage was unable to sign the register, in the majority of cases it was the girl who couldn't write. Here is a point for speculation: were girls regarded as unlikely to profit by being taught to read and write (perhaps there was nowt in it for lasses), or did the demands of domestic work at home cause them to forget what they had ever learned? A further fact also ought not to be overlooked. From the fact that a person cannot write, it doesn't follow that he cannot read. Many of us can remember old people who never attended school who could read quite well. Some of the stalwarts of village Nonconformity were of this type, and though possessing all the limitations of the self-taught, they were by no means ignorant or foolish men. Whilst on the subject of learning amongst the older generation of Dissenters we cannot do better than take the small (and now defunct) Baptist community which existed during the greater part of the last century in Ulpha.

To return to Susanna Wilson's Chapel. This is now a house, still in the possession of a member of the family, Mr. Norman Casson, whose mother was a niece of the late Susanna. In one of the windows, near the door, there is a beautifully carved Greek inscription, which reads, "Search ye the Scriptures. Th5.39". Now the existence of a mason who could write and carve Greek script shows no low level of culture. And it is a fair presumption that, whoever decided on the work, felt that it would be under-stood and appreciated by those who came to worship.

A story, which is well known in the valley, is worth repeating here. John Gunson, the landlord of the Plough Inn, now Church House, like many others of his time, had a knowledge of the classics, possibly acquired from the local parson or by going to one of the Grammar Schools such as S. Bees or Hawkshead. Some students, in order to take a rise out of old Gunson, sent a note, written in Latin, asking for their account. To their surprise, the maid eventually brought back an answer in Greek. As this was a little beyond the young men's power to translate, they were reduced to the humiliating situation of having to apologise and ask for an English rendering.

Another example of local learning was the late Thomas Williams, lessee of Common Wood Quarry, Uipha, in which quarry he was found drowned on 4th September, 1880. Thomas Williams was a native of Rhostryfan, Caernarvon, who married (as first husband) the late Mrs. Casson, of The Low, niece of Susanna Wilson. On his tombstone in Church, under his name, there is inscribed, "Ap. Gwyrfai", which we are told is Welsh for "son of Gwyrfai", a name which the deceased employed when writing for various Welsh periodicals.

Now, though the cases quoted above may be examples of learning occasionally found in every village, they are but a few of the many who have left no memorial in village history of their learning and their wisdom. In every place there were Overseers of the Poor and the Churchwardens, who kept accounts, held correspondence with such Government and Church officials as cared to trouble them, and who even conducted law suits on behalf of the ratepayers. And, mark you, these men were not "the idle rich", but the dale statesman, leading a busy life on his farm, winter and summer alike.

Now for the generality of the people. Could they even read, say, their Bibles or their Prayer Books? One should remember that, in the days before the daily Press and the cheap editions of almost every kind of book, that people did not have either the incentive or the opportunity to read to the extent that we enjoy (sic!) today. People went to Church on Sunday morning as a matter almost of routine. There was invariably a Parish Clerk, who was frequently the Schoolmaster, to lead the congregation in the responses and the alternative verses of the Psalms. Parishioners provided their own Prayer Books and others were provided for the Poor of the Parish by charitable donors. A good example of this appears in the Parish Registers: "16th January, 1820, at a Vestry Meeting holden this day for taking into consideration the propriety of applying the annual interest or benefit of 17sh. 10d. (a sum of money belonging to this township) to charitable uses, it was agreed on by the Minister, Churchwardens, Overseers and inhabitants then and there assembled to lay out and expend the said annual Interest yearly in purchasing a Bible, Testaments and other religious books". It's hardly likely that books would have been distributed to a poor population which was illiterate!

We will now consider the sources of education available for the village boy or girl. In the first place, there was generally the resident minister. "Wonderful" Walker's teaching of the village children in Church at Seathwaite comes immediately to one's mind. The scholars sitting round the Communion Table in the body of the Church, in cold weather the running up the fell side to get the circulation going; and the payment of the parson for his tuition in kind, are pictures which rise in the mind of every dalesman. Some of the clergy set themselves out to provide something more than elementary education. The Rev. Dr. Jeremiah Walker, of Ulpha, kept an Academy for Young Gentlemen at Broom Hill, Broughton. The late Canon Ellwood's father, the Rev. Thomas Ellwood, whilst Vicar of Torver, got a name as a coach for those reading for a degree at Cambridge. The Rev. Chas. Whitaker had a house next door to his Parsonage at Ulpha, in which young students lodged who were preparing to take Holy Orders.

The younger children and girls were catered for in other ways. There was a small dame's school in the house at Bridge End where children were taught, for the payment of a modest fee. There are people still living who can remember the Vicar of Ulpha and others joining for a governess for the girls and the little boys. They can also recall the old Tysons at Black Hall, at the bottom of Hard Knott, who would employ a teacher to instruct the children in winter and help on the land in haytime.

A School for Girls was opened at Buckman Brow in 1846 by Miss Frances E. Miller, of Duddon Grove (who also endowed it with £80 per annum). The Trustees were: Owners of Duddon Hall and Ulpha Estates (the Rawlinsons) and Broadgate (the Lewthwaites), with the Vicars of Thwaites and Broughton. The fees were two pence per week. Books and stationery, we are told, would be provided by the Managers. They would also provide coal and a stove for dinners. The children often received other gifts, e.g., on the death of one of their benefactors, each girl was given a black dress for mourning, and, after twelve months, a black and white dress for half-mourning.

The origin of the village schools cannot be traced. Only by occasional references are we made aware of their existence, e.g., Bishop Gastrill notes on his visitation in 1720: ^"Torverno school house until 1693, but incumbent taught the children in Church". In this year, E. Walker, curate, licensed as 1st schoolmaster. The earliest record of Ulpha School is as follows: "The School House was built about the year 1793, the old School House, which was at the East end of Ulpha Church, having fallen down, part in the Churchyard and part in the Church-house estate. This first-named School House, built about the year 1793, is situated upon a part of the Birks estate in the town-ship of Seathwaite, adjoining Seathwaite Common, Lancashire, purchased by Mr. William Danson, of Foulds, Ulpha, who paid for the principal part of the building, together with the land, which is vested under certain trustees, but I believe, at this time, 1851, is neglected in the fulfilment thereof.

The late Revd. Isaac Gaitskell, Minister of Ulpha, and his son, William Gaitskell, have taught in this school for 47 years (1851).

Wm. Poole made this memorandum here (i.e., in the Parish Register) in case it should ever be of use".

This is the only record of our school's early history, and we should be grateful to Wm. Poole for his trouble in making this entry in the Parish Register.

The Gaitskells served the parish well and were highly esteemed. Isaac's wife was the great grand-daughter of Wonderful Walker, of Seathwaite. Before coming to Ulpha he was curate to the famous Canon Parkinson, of Manchester Collegiate Church (and incidentally author of the local romance "The Old Church Clock"). Isaac succeeded him as Vicar of Whitworth, near Rochdale, and Canon Parkinson obtained for his son John an exhibition at Rossall—"to mark his appreciation of the character of Wonderful Walker, and his regard for the descendants of that apostolic priest".

In 1804, the Rev. John Bolton, Vicar of Millom, and formerly curate of Ulpha, bought from John Casson, of Birks, twenty square yards of land, on which he caused a school to be erected. This forms the present kitchen of the School-house. The property was vested in trustees, on whose decease others were to be appointed by a meeting of the Vestry "after due notice published in Ulpha Church at divine service in the forenoon of the Sunday preceding such meeting". The trustees were to appoint the curate of Ulpha as Master of the said school, to instruct the children in reading, writing and accounts. Only on his neglecting to teach should they appoint some other suitable person.

Previous to 1851 Wm. Gaitskell, like other teachers before him, lived where he could. For some years he lived at Whistling Green, the small farm now incorporated with Sella, just across the fell from the school. In 1851 a house was built for £39 2s. 9d., plus what the master gave himself—doors and woodwork, including cupboards and shelves, iron grating for the windows, and the fire-grates. The house consisted of what is now the school-house living room, with two bedrooms above, these latter being reached by a step-ladder.

In 1871 the land behind the school was conveyed to the Parish by Mr. Joseph Gunson, of Oak Bank. A census of this date gives the inhabitants as 340 adults and 54 children. The Board of Education recommended a building to accommodate 64 pupils. As a result of an appeal for subscriptions, the present building was erected in 1874 at a cost of £250.

Many of the older inhabitants can remember the former school. The teachers believed in fresh air, and kept the door always open. In wet weather a large tarpaulin was hung over the door to keep out the wet. When the cold weather came and the children complained, they were told to bring a penny a week; this money was spent on shavings from the Bobbin Mill, which were cheap and easily obtained. In the afternoon the fire was allowed to die out.

Though the school had some endowment it was not free. These days were not yet. Several of the wealthier people, the late Mrs. Gunson for instance, appear frequently as "debtors to the masters for tutoring So-and-So's children".

Few of us realise today how niggardly was the help which the local school received from the Board of Education. In the Parish Magazines of last century we are frequently reminded that the grant which the trustees would receive would depend on how the children turned up and answered the questions of H.M. Inspector on the appointed day. In February, 1880, the Vicar of Broughton gave notice on behalf of the trustees, "Children abstaining from attendance on the Day of Inspection and thereby diminishing the Government Grant, will have their fees raised". Each village had its own methods of keeping parents up to the scratch. Broughton had an Attendance Committee. Parents apparently were too often anxious to keep children away from school directly they were of any use on the farm. In the Broughton Magazine for September, 1878, we read of new regulations. (a) Every child from 5—10 must be taught reading, writing and arithmetic; (b) At 10, if the child attended school 250 times during each of the last two years or previous years, it may be excused or it must pass an examination. (We would like to know what the fathers and mothers thought of the Board of Education and the Broughton Managers! )

The Masters of the school received very little in the way of salary. In 1875 James High, at Ulpha, taught for £10 per quarter. The agreement which he made with the trustees is still in the school chest. So is the one for the next teacher, who demanded £20 per quarter. We are told that the trustees felt they could hardly bear this new burden; the parish couldn't find the money. Joseph Shackley apparently taught for a year at the old salary, but left. Later the Managers were in a dilemma, he was persuaded to return—at the higher rate. Wm. Gaitskell continued in office 10 years after Wm. Poole made his note, thus making a period of 57 years for the two Gaitskells.

The school at Ulpha has benefited by the liberality of the Gunson family. Apart from the many scholars whose fees were paid by Mrs. Gunson, as well as the gift of the site by her husband, Joseph Gunson, the trustees also received a gift of £500 under his will, to be used either for increasing the stipend of the master or for the general benefit of the school.

A copy of the yearly balance sheet of the neighbouring school at Alterside, culled from an old magazine, will give some idea of how the trustees discharged their duties: —

1881

Teacher's Salary
(Mr. Kilburn)          £50  0 0
Sewing Mistress         5   0 0
Books                        0 15 0
Fuel                            1  8  9
Furniture repairs
and Cleaning               1   5 0
Rates                          0   2 7
                               £58 11 4
Grants                     £25 10 0
Endowment                 3   0 0
Subscriptions               1   1 0
School Pence             27 19 1
Fuel                             1   6 3
                                £58 11 4

The trustees, we are told, have great confidence in Mr. Kilburn, who will shortly receive his certificate.

In the deed conveying the school site to the trustees, Mr. Joseph Gunson expressed the wish that a committee of ladies, not exceeding six in number, shall be appointed to see that the girls received some preparation for domestic work. This idea apparently was in advance of the times, for there is no record of the committee functioning, though one was appointed at the time and another thirty-five years afterwards. This desire, however, of Joseph Gunson was partly realised by the appointment of a sewing mistress. Miss Maria Shackley and Mrs. Jane Tyson are recorded as receiving payment for this work. At other times a monitress was appointed at 2/6 a week. Once the trustees allowed a person under fourteen years of age to perform the task, and the Ulverston Education Committee—in the true official manner—refused to make a grant towards the expenses so incurred. At a later date a mistress was employed to assist the master.

After Miss Shackley and Mrs. Tyson the following names appear as monitresses: —Ethel Stephenson, Agnes Youdell and Sarah Whineray. Ladies (assistant and domestic subjects)^': Ethel Tyson, Alice Frearson, Alice Jane Casson and Sarah E. Stephen-son, Mrs. Broadbent, Mrs. Catherine Boucher, Misses E. H. Bowes, Mabel Varley, Elizabeth Leece and Clare Knipe.

MASTERS OF ULPHA SCHOOL

1802—Rev. Isaac Gaitskell and Wm. Gaitskell.
1862—Rev. Jeremiah Walker (?).
1865—Joseph Sharkley.
1866—Henry W. Major.
1869—Henry Collins.
1875—James High.
1876—Joseph Shackley.
1892—James Tyson.
1910-J. H. Broadbent.
1931—(Miss) H. M. Peacock.
1944—(Miss) Olive Paterson.
1952—(Miss) J. G. MacArthur.
1966—Miss Susie Clarkson.

An interesting insight into the school life can be gained by glancing through the old Log Book, which begins in 1886.

Among the poems learned by the children we find such well-known ones as The Inchcape Rock and Lucy Gray. Extracts from the Merchant of Venice and King John appear under the heading of English.

The first visit of an attendance officer was on 3rd March, 1888.

The school holidays appear to have been fixed to suit local conditions and events. At Easter only one or two days were taken. Other excuses for a day off include ^"Master, attending a sale", "Annual Hare Hunt on Dunnerdale Fell". "As a wedding is a novelty in Ulpha, children and myself attend at request of bridegroom" (13th Nov., 1895).

On another occasion, "6th Sept.—School closed today at 3.0 p.m. (for my wedding) to open again on 16th Sept". One stormy day only five boys present, "set them to wash out closets and clean up around school". Sometimes master feels on top of the world, e.g., "Affected by term week (i.e. hiring week); work goes smilingly". The first record of a medical inspection of the children is dated 29th May, 1908. Frequently Mr. James Tyson is highly praised in the reports of H.M. Inspector. Mr. Holmes, the Chief Inspector, wrote, "this is indeed a model of what a county school should be". (He left, as he states, after 18½ years pleasant and successful life for a similar post at Lowick. His work for the Church and school will long be remembered.

A library was also run in connection with the school. This was kept up by subscriptions, dances, etc., until such time as the County Library became available for the use of the inhabitants. In 1944 the books which were still of any use were sent to the Forces and the others given to the National Book Drive.

It would be almost impossible to dwell on the other numerous lecturers, teachers and demonstrators who formerly, by trap in the dark and more recently by car in the black-out have spent hours in getting to isolated villages such as ours, frequently to meet a very disappointing attendance, or occasionally to their surprise, to find a room filled to overflowing. The changes of weather, the chances of whose night out it is, or who's courting whom, are the factors which determine more than the lecturer or the importance of his subject whether the attendance be many or few.

No record of adult education would be complete without some reference to both the Mothers' Union and the Women's Institute. Both these societies, which in their entirely different ways have done so much for the women of our land, held their inaugural meetings at the Parsonage. The Mothers' Union at Ulpha held its first meeting at the Parsonage, in Mrs. Whitaker's day, when an address was given by Mrs. Monington, of Broughton. As a result of this meeting, which took place in November, 1905, fourteen women gave in their names and a branch was formed.

The Women's Institute was the successor of a Women's Guild, which was entirely a parochial organisation without connection or affiliation with any central body. As a result of a meeting at the Parsonage in 1932, it was decided to form a branch of the Women's Institute. The Institute has one thing to its credit: despite the prophecies of Jeremiahs innumerable that two villages never mix, the W.I. is a combine affair of Ulpha and Seathwaite.

To soliloquise on the future of the countryside in general and of education in particular at times like the present is an impossibility. What will be the effects of the new Education Act and increased centralisation cannot possibly be foreseen. From the past, however, we can learn one lesson: the men who did so much for our parish in former years were inspired with a deep sense of their religious responsibilities. Let us pray God that, in the future, in each parish, "Sound religion and true learning may abound".

Revised 1974.
Church House,
Ulpha.